- Tools required include the following: Pencil, Tape Measure, Multi-Tool for undercutting the door jambs or alternatively a Handsaw, Utility Knife, Pull Bar, Hammer, Rubber Mallet, Rubber Tapping Block, Spacers/Wedges, Jigsaw, Drop Saw or Guillotine, Table Saw or Circular Saw, Broom, Dust Pan, Vacuum and relevant Safety and Personal Protective Equipment (PPE).
- A waste factor of 10% needs to be allowed for, whilst a 15% waste factor needs to be allowed for when a large amount of angles and curves are involved. It is strongly advised that the consumer also purchase at least a spare box of the flooring that they have purchase, in case any future repairs are required. Harmony Timber Floors Pty Ltd regularly change their profiling, dimensions and colours of their flooring etc. to meet the needs of the market. Hence we cannot be expected to have stock of old flooring on hand for long periods of time. If a warranty repair is required and the original materials are not available, then the repairs will be carried out using similar flooring.
- It is important to note that SPC hybrid vinyl flooring can only be installed via the Floating Method of Installation. For stairs only, the underlay backing needs to be removed, along with the old adhesive from the floorboard. Then, using a flexible adhesive, adhere the flooring to the stairs. Before applying any adhesives ensure the substrate is clean and free of chemicals, solvents, paint, old adhesives etc. in order to ensure proper adhesion.
- Please note that SPC hybrid vinyl flooring cannot be installed over battens.
- NEVER install an underlay, as this will cause the flooring to be spongy underfoot and could cause the floorboards to unclip or the locks to fracture or break. Installation of an underlay will void all warranties for the product.
Stage 1
- Follow steps outlined in Step 1: Pre-Installation Procedures and check the moisture contents of the subfloor as discussed in Step 2: Moisture Test.
- Proper temperature control needs to be in place during and after installation and can be achieved by circulating the air with fans, opening windows and doors, running air conditioners etc. The optimal temperature at the time of installation is 24 degrees Celsius and this is also the ideal temperature range to be maintained where possible once installation has been completed. Furthermore, the Relative Humidity should be controlled at between 30% and 70% at all times, in order to ensure the flooring performs optimally.
Stage 2
- Seal the subfloor if required.
- Install builder’s black plastic as discussed in Step 3: Subfloor Preparation as well as rectify levels if required.
Stage 3
- Unpack the boxes as described in Step 4: Before Installation. Remove any skirting if applicable and undercut the door jambs with either a Multi-Tool or Handsaw, using an off cut of the flooring as a guide to achieve the correct heights.
Stage 4
- Usually you will want to orientate the floorboards in the direction of the major source of incoming light, so that light is shining down the length of the floorboards, or install the floorboards with the length of the room. Sometimes these to situations do not work in unison, in which case the consumer will need to take into account things like expansion or the overall look they want to achieve.
- Commence installation working from left to right placing the spacers/wedges at the ends and edges where the flooring meets the walls. It is critical to leave expansion of a minimum of 9mm around the perimeters of the flooring, depending on the size of the area. If possible, cut and remove the base of the Gyprock approximately 10mm up from the subfloor in order to gain an extra 10mm expansion. Where possible use 18mm skirting to gain extra expansion.
- For areas large than 6 meters in width and length, the floor may need to be compartmentalized. Failure to consider the installation of expansion joints over runs longer than 6 meters could compromise expansion and any resultant damage to the flooring will not be covered by the product warranty. Please contact Harmony Timber Floors Pty Ltd for clarification in this regard prior to commencing installation.
Stage 5
- Start the first row of floorboards with the bottom locking system facing towards the installer and away from the wall. Once the first floorboard has been installed and the Spacers/Wedges placed at the ends where the flooring meets the walls, lock the butt joints (short end of the floorboards) together by inserting the top lock into the bottom lock at a slight angle and drop in place.
- If required tap the butt joint gently with an off cut piece of the SPC hybrid vinyl flooring (underlay side facing down), using a rubber mallet. This is to ensure that the butt joints are securely locked together. Run your fingers over the butt joints in order to ensure they are sitting flush, which will indicate that they are securely locked together. NEVER hit any of the locks directly, without using an off cut piece of the SPC hybrid vinyl flooring (underlay side facing down) with a rubber mallet, as it could cause the locks to break. Also NEVER hit the locks to hard as it could cause the locks to break. Failure to close the gaps will compromise the locking system.
- Continue this procedure until you get to the end of the row. Cut the last floorboard with a Utility Knife and Steel Ruler, Drop Saw or Guillotine. A Utility Knife and Steel Ruler or a Guillotine will be a cleaner option. Once the first row has been installed, use the leftover piece of the cut floorboard and start your next row with it, ensuring that the spaces between the butt joints are at least 30 cm apart. The spacing between butt joints of at least 30cm creates a more stable floor and also looks more aesthetically pleasing. Also ensure that the piece starting the row is no smaller than 30cm. If starting a row with a new floorboard, ensure you cut the lock facing the wall off first. Lock the long edge of the starter floorboard by inserting the top lock into the bottom lock at a slight angle and drop in place. Ensure a Spacer/Wedge is placed at the end where the floorboard meets the wall. Tap if required using the off cut piece of the SPC hybrid vinyl flooring (underlay side facing down) and the rubber mallet.
- To avoid creating a joint pattern in the flooring, it is necessary to begin installation using starter boards. To create a starter floorboard, cut the floorboard at 2/3 the length. Start with the 2/3 length, and then install the full lengths and continue across the room. Use the 1/3 length to start the next row and continue as above keeping at least a 30cm distance between the end joints. Cuts made at the opposite wall should be used for starter floorboards. A starter floorboard should be a minimum 30cm long. If you wish to introduce a pattern then the strongest and most stable pattern is a running brick bond pattern.
At this stage there are two options that can be utilized in order to install the floorboards:
Option 1
Firstly, lock the butt joint of the second floorboard into the butt joint of the first floorboard installed in row two, lining up the long edge of the second floorboard as close as possible to the adjoining floorboard. Ensure the butt joints are securely locked in. Then go to the end of the second floorboard in row two, slightly angle it and with your hands lock the long edge of the floorboard into the adjoining floorboard, working your way back towards the butt joints of the first and second floorboards in row two. If necessary you can lock the remaining section of the floorboard in by pushing/knocking gently at a slight angle with your hand against the exposed/facing lock. If required tap the locks gently with an off cut piece of the flooring (underlay side facing down), using a rubber mallet in order to ensure the floorboards are locked in properly. These procedures are then replicated throughout the installation process. When cutting around built-in cabinetry or fitting the floorboards underneath the door jambs, use either a Utility Knife of Jigsaw to make the cuts, ensuring the relevant expansion has been left at all times.
Option 2
Firstly, lock the butt joints of the second floorboard into the first floorboard installed in row two, lining up the long edge of the second floorboard as close as possible to the adjoining floorboard. Ensure the butt joints are securely locked in. Then at an approximate angle of 30 degrees lift the first and second floorboards and lock in the long edge working your way down from the butt joint towards the end of the second floorboard in row two. If necessary you can lock the remaining section of the floorboard in by pushing/knocking gently at a slight angle with your hand against the exposed/facing lock. If required tap the locks gently with an off cut piece of the SPC hybrid vinyl flooring (underlay side facing down), using a rubber mallet in order to ensure the floorboards are locked in properly. These procedures are then replicated throughout the installation process. When cutting around built-in cabinetry or fitting the floorboards underneath the door jambs, use either a Utility Knife of Jigsaw to make the cuts, ensuring the relevant expansion has been left.
Stage 6
- A far more professional outcome is achieved when the skirting is removed prior to installation commencing and reinstalled on completion of the installation process. It is also highly recommended to undercut the architraves unless they are steel architraves that are structural. Where a client does not wish to remove the skirting, a molding or scotia can be fixed to the skirting. Never nail the timber beading or scotia to the flooring as this could cause expansion issues. When fixing the skirting or kickers etc. it is extremely important not to push hard down on the skirting. Gently sit the skirting or kickers on top of the flooring and fix to the walls. Failure to do this could cause expansion issues and the flooring will not be covered by the product warranty. Furthermore, by using an 18mm skirting as opposed to an 11mm skirting, will gain extra expansion and possibly reduce the need for expansion joints. It is also advisable to undercut the Gyprock where possible in order to gain an extra 10mm expansion.
- Against any built-in cabinetry, fit a molding to cover the expansion unless the built-in cabinetry has been set up and any kickboards left off. NEVER fit built-in cabinetry, balustrades or sliding door track on top of the flooring, as this will cause expansion issues and will void the product warranty. The same is applicable when placing extremely heavy items directly on top of the flooring such as a baby grand piano, heavy bookcases, a billiard table etc. All of the above could cause expansion issues and this could result in the product warranty being null & void in part or in full.
- Install transition strips against the tiles, carpet, windows and sliding doors etc. using a flexible adhesive or a clear silicone to fix the transition strips. Please discuss the different transition strips with your supplier so they are able to advise you of the best choices in this regard.
- Please note that the placement of silicone to the base of the skirting and around built-in cabinetry could potentially cause expansion issues and as a result is not permissible. Failure to adhere to this will void the product warranty. Silicone work is permissible only around steel architraves, which cannot be undercut and around stone waterfalls only.
Stage 7
- On completion of the installation process, sweep up large pieces of debris and dispose of in a responsible manner. Vacuum the remaining debris up, ensuring that the brushes our out on the vacuum head. You can then mop the flooring using a neutral floor cleaner, referring to the manufacturer’s instructions and a lightly damp micro fibre mop. Refer to Harmony Timber Floors Pty Ltd Care and Maintenance Instructions on how to clean the flooring.
STAIR NOSING NOTES:
- It is CRITICAL that when installing the stair nosing on a staircase, that the following steps be taken:
- Firstly, it is critical that the underlay backing on the SPC Hybrid Vinyl flooring is removed prior to installation on the staircase and that the back surface scratched up with 40 grit sandpaper, in order to create a key for the timber flooring adhesive. Failure to do this will void all warranties for the stair nosing.
- The staircase to be clad is to be squared off. If necessary, the riser needs to be packed out so as to sit flush with the edge of the tread and if a bullnose is present, cut off. If the bullnose cannot be cut off, then the gap between the rounded edge of the bullnose and the back of the stair nosing needs to be packed with a non-flexible construction adhesive which will set hard, so as to fill the void present.
- It is important that timber flooring adhesive is trowelled on the tread and that glue fitted to the return face of the stair nosing, ensuring that it sits securely.
- It is imperative that the return face of the stair nosing sits flush to the riser and is securely adhered to the riser. There cannot be any gap present between the return face of the stair nosing and the riser.
- Failure to implement all of the above steps, will result in the stair nosing rocking and potentially breaking on the rounded edge. If all the above steps are not taken and the stair nosing starts to break on the rounded edge, this will not be deemed a warranty issue and as such will not be covered by our warranty.
- If for some reason a stair nosing fails due to a manufacturing error, they will be replaced under warranty, but unless Harmony Timber Floors Pty Ltd did the installation, the labour component will not be covered.
- Please note that due to the nature of stair nosing and the fact that they are more susceptible to wear and tear, their construction is only warranted for a period of 2 years. Furthermore, our warranty does not cover dents and scratches to the stair nosing, which can happen as part of the normal wear and tear of the stair nosing.